Photography by Alex Filz
Although a popular destination throughout the year for sports and outdoor activities ranging from hiking and biking in the summer to skiing in the winter, I was eager to visit the Dolomites for another reason– the world-famous alpine wellness spas. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, mineral springs became Europe’s cure-all for medical ailments, and wellness seekers flocked to the region’s famous waters and sanitariums. Today, modern alpine spas are welcoming everyone from citydwellers suffering from burnout, to couples celebrating a honeymoon or romantic occasion, to whole families looking for a resort and region with activities for everyone at every age. The best of these is Adler Resorts & Lodges - a seventh generation family-owned hospitality group by the Sanoner family, who still live in Ortisei, and whose name is synonymous with wellness resort concepts that intimately immerse guests in the surrounding natural environs.
Photography by Alex Filz
Adler Spa Resort Dolomiti is located in a 200 year old building in Ortisei, the charming main village of Val Gardena. It is hard to imagine the sprawling mountain resort was once purchased by Josef Anton Sanoner in 1810 as a small tavern guest house. The pedestrian-only cobblestone streets are lined with pastel-colored churches and boutiques - scenery which seems straight out of the Sound of Music. I take a deep breath of crisp mountain air and feel healthier already. Upon walking through the doors of the resort, I am received under a beautiful crystal chandelier by smiling staff wearing traditional dirndls as South Tyrol is a unique blend of German and Italian. They even have their own language, Ladin, which I heard upon check-in as I was poured a glass of local Italian organic, biodynamic Prosecco from Adler’s Tuscan winery called “Aetos” meaning “Eagle in Greek” and instead of the Italian “Salute,” I was greeted with “Vives!”
Photography by Alex Filz
Although the lobby is beautifully appointed with warm alpine chic wooden decor featuring neutral tones animal hyde rugs, leather couches, and a roaring fire, I can’t keep my eyes from the large glass bay windows. I take a sip of sparkling wine, and catch the sun setting, casting its pink glow over the famous, striking white Dolomiti mountain peaks. After entering my room, one of 108 on the property, I notice the inviting ambient scent found in the lobby and throughout the property, and locate the source - Adler has a signature scent room diffuser with notes of sage and citrus, and I am happy to learn it is available for purchase at the property and online, along with their Aetos wines and beauty products. A plush, white robe is folded on the bed, inviting me to slip into, and join the other guests comfortably strolling around the property in theirs in between spa treatments, swimming, and sauna sessions.
Photography by Alex Filz
After settling in, I change for dinner and visit the bustling bar, which is complete with a piano player, knowledgeable bartenders, and a spread of hors d'oeuvres including local South Tyrolean cheeses like Badia, Graukäse, and Ortler, and charcuterie such as the cured ham Speck before heading downstairs to the main dining room for dinner. The resort boasts chefs who craft exquisite farm to table local culinary dishes with a four or five-course menu that changes nightly, complemented by an extensive selection of fine regional Italian wines, many from Adler’s own Tuscan vineyard. After trying South Tyrolean specialties like Schüttelbrot (crunchy, aromatic rye bread), and Knödel (boiled dumplings)l, I make sure to save room for Austrian apricot Linzer Torte and Apple Strudel. The unique position of the Dolomites and blend of cultures is apparent in the cuisine, which features dishes from Italy, Austria, Germany, and Switzerland.
Photography by Alex Filz
I wake up early with the sun and fresh mountain air, enjoy a coffee on the terrace, and head to a yoga class. In addition to multiple yoga, detox, and wellness retreats throughout the year, Adler offers a plethora of daily activities for guests to participate in including stretching, pilates, meditation, guided hikes, Nordic walking, water aerobics, biking, sound baths, a gym filled with the latest Technogym equipment, and of course the multiple pools for swimming.
After yoga, I visit the light-filled, wood-walled, warm-hued breakfast room, and am in awe of the vast selection of gourmet items ranging from local sheep's milk yogurt and muesli with honeycomb and homemade jam, to fresh Italian cornetto pastries filled with pistachio or nutella cream, made to order eggs, fresh juices, and much more.
Photography by Alex Filz
Finally, I slip on my bathing suit and robe and set out to try a spa treatment and explore the vast property.
The heart of the resort is the spa and the beauty and wellness treatment menu is over 40 pages long, and includes various Ayurvedic and Zen massages, clay baths, and the list goes on – all using the all-natural Adler skincare products, which are made using local ingredients. Upon check-in, guests can opt to have a doctor review their lab work and make holistic recommendations for a diet, detox, and exercise regime during their stay.
Attention to detail is seen throughout the resort. For instance, in the new Lakeside Sauna area, natural, local materials have been used, including spruce wood, Fleres stones from Upper Eisack Valley, and terre pisée, a natural crushed clay. The design blends in seamlessly with the natural environment as an abundance of native species, such as birch, willow, and larch trees have been planted nearby, creating a serene environment. The Adler for Planet initiative is adopting eco-conscious practices throughout the resort, and sustainability can be felt through the stay. For instance, a digital app is used to register for treatments and sign up for classes rather than paper brochures, and slippers are available upon request.
Photography by Alex Filz
Within the Lakeside Sauna area, a steam room and two pinewood saunas can be found. One is filled with Tyrolean hay whose sharp, sweet, dry-earth perfume is said to aid in metabolism, and both offer panoramic views of the rough-chiseled topography. Every afternoon, guests are invited to join in an “Aufguss” ceremony in the sauna. Coming from the German word for “infusion” an Aufguss is a multi-sensory wellness ritual, which involves pouring essential-oil-infused ice onto hot stones and waving a towel over guests to circulate the steam. Originating in Nordic countries, the Aufguss ritual started as a way to refresh the air in saunas, but over time, the ritual evolved into a complex experience that combines relaxation, aromatherapy, and invigoration. The benefits of the experience are said to include improved blood circulation and cardiovascular strength, which help to boost the immune system and eliminate toxins. After the sauna ceremony, most guests (including me) plunge into the crisp, cold, and refreshing fresh waters of the lake just outside before warming up again in the multiple indoor and outdoor saltwater thermal pools, jacuzzis, whirlpools, salt grottoes, steam rooms, and saunas. As if the cold plunge wasn’t enough, I also tried the state of the art cryobox in which cryotherapy is administered in a three-minute session at a temperature of -160 degrees celsius. The numerous health and beauty benefits include weight loss, muscle rejuvenation, and collagen synthesis. Afterwards, I head up to the second floor rest and relaxation area, which features floor-to-ceiling wood walls, oak floors, reclining chairs, fire pits, and a terrace overlooking the property and the mountains – the perfect place to end an utterly relaxing day and see the stars begin to dot the clear Dolomiti sky.
Photography by Alex Filz
For a lighter dinner, I visit Adler’s sister resort on the property, Adler Spa Resort Balance, which can be reached through a connecting passageway. Balance offers a more comprehensive health experience with a diet, detox, and exercise plan and various 360-degree holistic medical treatments for weight loss and nutrition, stress management, detox, prevention and diagnosis, and aesthetic medicine. Similar in decor and design to Adler Dolomiti, Adler Balance also features warm-wooden walls casting glowing light, fresh local wildflowers set on each table, yet the menu offers lighter, healthier, Mediterranean cuisine, including vegetarian and vegan options and taking into account any guest diet restrictions.
Photography by Alex Filz
After a day spent exploring the property, spas, saunas, and treatments, I was anxious to explore the mountains. Therefore, Adler arranged a scenic hike to their other sister property Adler Lodge Alpe (there are 6 Adler resorts between the Dolomites, Sicily, and Tuscany) for a tour and lunch. After a scenic hike with sightings of sheep and horses grazing, I arrived at the mountain lodge, which blended seamlessly into the landscape. A wooden terrace stretches across the chalet-style hotel where guests enjoy farm-to-table cheese, charcuterie, and champagne with a view over the entire mountain valley below. Before indulging in lunch myself, I toured the property and discovered perhaps the most beautiful gym I have ever seen. It is located on the second floor with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the mountainside, which I must stay, is a bit similar to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, although far more dramatic with the imposing, jagged, pale white cliffs of the Dolomites in plain view. I then visited the serene, edgeless pool, which also has impressive views of the mountain range. The overall aesthetic is a bit Japandi in style with natural, wooden materials, minimal, clean design, and an overall sense of warmth and coziness befitting a mountain lodge. Back inside the main restaurant next to a roaring fire, a traditional lunch was served and finished with one of my favorite Austrian desserts called “kaiserschmarrn” after Emperor Franz Joseph 1 who, like me, was fond of this light pancake topped with powdered sugar and jam. As I made my way back outside to the terrace to catch sunset, I noticed the Adler, which means “Eagle” in German, logo on a window, and looked up to see several hawks circling the property. It seemed particularly apt at that moment that their motto is “Let your soul fly.” I certainly seemed a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of New York City. I surveyed the impressive view and took in a few last breaths of fresh alpine air before making my way back to Ortisei feeling relaxed and refreshed and ready for my next adventure.
Photography by Alex Filz
Adler Resorts & Spas
Strada Rezia, 7, 39046
Ortisei BZ, Italy
Website